Words Provided by Patrick Straub / Images by Rodney Korte & John Goodson
A group of Yellow Dog anglers recently returned from their first trip to Christmas Island after having traveled extensively together to destinations such as Providence, Costa Rica, and Alaska. Having recently opened from COVID-19 restrictions, the group decided to visit the newly re-opened Christmas Island Lodge. Simply put, the trip surpassed their expectations.
Christmas Island has a reputation as a remote and rugged destination. It is indeed both of those things, but the ownership and management team at Christmas Island Lodge is changing that for guests who choose to make the long journey to this beautiful saltwater flats destination.
The Fishing
For six days we enjoyed a variety of walk-and-wade fishing for consistent schools of bonefish and shots at large singles and doubles. Several bonefish pushing 8 and 9 pounds were caught as well as one 10+ pound trophy. As a bonefish destination, Christmas Island surpassed any expectations on the number of available bonefish and their accessibility for saltwater newcomers. The opportunities for large singles and doubles kept even the most skilled saltwater anglers busy… and humbled at times.
Triggerfish are prevalent on Christmas Island and the guides at Christmas Island Lodge know how to find them and are eager to do so. Now, getting a triggerfish to eat your fly… that’s another story, and a reason to consider a return trip.
Dozens of other species were consistently caught… Bluefin Trevally, Milkfish, Golden Trevally, and Wrasses, as well as Yellowfin Tuna and Wahoo on a few hours spent chasing bluefin species.
Some of our crew went to Christmas Island in hopes of adding a Giant Trevally to their species bucket list. A few small Giant Trevally were caught and several large ones pursued, with one lucky angler hooking up to a grand specimen. Each day, GTs were spotted and cast to, but these apex predators appear and hunt on a flat very quickly and seem to disappear off of a flat twice as fast.
To have success at the GT game on Christmas Island, anglers truly have to be in the right place at the right time and have a good bit of luck.
But even if the GTs aren’t cooperating, the plethora of willing bonefish, challenging triggerfish, and several other species means few moments pass without something to cast to.
The Lodge
The team behind Christmas Island Lodge knows how to make a great fishing lodge. With experience running remote lodges, they have dialed in the necessary comforts anglers expect. Rooms had air-conditioning, were clean, and beds were pleasantly more comfortable than expected. With daily linen service packing was a breeze, and coming back each day to clean bed sheets and fresh towels made getting essential rest easy.
Breakfasts each morning were plentiful and protein-packed providing fuel for the day of walking-and-wading the flats. Eggs, meat, bread, and fruit were served outside near the beach as the waves of the Pacific Ocean broke on the reef. Lunches were had between flats fishing sessions and kept the fishing energy strong.
After fishing, heavy apps of empanadas, sushi (if local fish were caught), shrimp cocktails, and more were provided before dinner.
Dinners consisted of fresh-caught local fish, chicken, or whatever the Christmas Island kitchen team cooked up. From hearing a variety of accounts on the lack-of-quality food on Christmas Island, our group was happy with the variety and portion sizes.
The Guides
During our week we experienced a variety of weather—from sun to rain to solid overcast—and the guides were able to put us on fish consistently in all of those conditions. In fact, the largest bonefish of the trip was caught in a driving rain storm. How the guide spotted that fish is still a mystery!
The guides out of Christmas Island were all hard working, can spot fish well, and are enthusiastic to share their unique island and fishery with us. English isn’t their first language, but the guides had no problem communicating when a fish was within casting range or when a GT was spotted in the distance and we needed to make haste.
Anglers need to be prepared to bring all of their own gear and flies and expect very little from the guides. Getting supplies on Christmas Island is very difficult, so leaving even the sparsest spool of tippet or mangled flies can help these guides continue to hone their craft on their days off.
+ View the Christmas Island Equipment List
Summary
Our week on Christmas Island was a great week of adventure angling travel. Spending some time coming and going in Honolulu was nice… and the Honolulu airport might be best airport for long layovers as there are botanical gardens within in the airport!
The fishing was plentiful for all sizes of bonefish, the GTs were abundant but well-earned, the triggerfish were… well… triggerfish and difficult to catch, and several other species always provided some action.
The lodge and the food were the ideal amenities to come home to after a long day on the flats.
