Written by Yellow Dog Seychelles Program Director, Alec Gerbec
This year’s annual return to the Seychelles involved a 5-night stay at Alphonse Island Resort followed by a 7 night stay at Cosmoledo Eco Lodge on January 6 – 18, 2024. The Alphonse portion of my trip was focused on building on existing relationships with the Alphonse Fishing Company staff as well as experiencing the latest and greatest offerings that the Island has to offer. My week on Cosmoledo was one that I hosted with a group of 11 anglers that were determined to have a great time and even catch a few fish.
My travels originated from Bozeman, Montana where I then decided to fly into San Francisco a few days early to ensure that I would make my connections to the Seychelles as this time of year is always testy with weather (and of course it was this year too with many flights delaying and canceling). From San Francisco, I boarded my Emirates flight to Dubai and then eventually onto Mahe, Seychelles. We always recommend building in a travel buffer on these trips over as its very important to make it to Mahe in time to make your IDC flight to the islands, as there is only one flight a week to these destinations in most cases.
Spending the day/night in Mahe before your trip is often plagued with random naps and jetlag after 28+ hours of travel, and I would say that just taking it easy is the best approach rather than planning some big excursion to experience another part of the Seychelles. Enjoy the pool if your accommodations if you have one, get some rest, or have a few Sey brews as you are about to embark on an intensive trip of fishing.
THE FISHING
Of course, part of my trip to Alphonse was to spend time on the water with the guide team and see how they are working together as this is what makes the Seychelles operations stand out from so many around the world. It was incredible to witness the way these guides continue to work together year after year, to make sure that every boat on the water has a successful week, instead of it being an all too familiar game that anglers often play of “getting the best guide” or “fishing the best flats”. Alphonse continues to be at the top when it comes to an all-encompassing destination where all levels of anglers can enjoy their time on the water and at the same time, experience amazing amenities and accommodations once they are back on land.
We had some tough weather in the area due to a cyclone that was currently circulating near Mauritius, but this did not stop us from getting on the water each day. It was very common each day to have multiple shots at triggerfish(perhaps my favorite species to target in the Seychelles) on the finger flats due to the neap tides we were experiencing while the moon shrunk to its new moon phase. With lots of shots come lots of heart break, but certainly many great memories were made as I traded the front end of the boat with the guides I went out with each day. The Giant Trevally were very present on St. Francois during my time there and I was lucky enough to land a 96-centimeter fish in the top lagoon near East Knoll.
I make sure to always spend on day on the Kitchen run boat as this has always been one of my favorite experiences since I worked over there. This is not a fly-fishing experience, but rather a good old fashion catch and cook where you get to encounter species like Yellowfin Tuna, Wahoo, Amber Jack, Rosie Job fish, various other species from the deep water. I am all for catch and release when it comes to flats flyfishing, but I am also a big believer in eating fresh food as close to the source as possible.
After my 4 days on the water at Alphonse, I then made my way to Cosmoledo where I met up with many familiar faces as almost everyone on my hosted week had already been fishing in the Seychelles before. We had very strong spring tides in the beginning of the week which lends itself to action packed sessions on the flats fishing for GT’s. Many fish were caught by the group and there were also a few notable memories made like a nice Indo Pacific permit and a grand slam involving a bonefish, milkfish, and Giant Trevally in the same day.
The Cylone down near Mauritius continued to snarl its teeth on the Seychelles for the duration of our trip, but that never stopped us from getting out each day. We did however have to move over to Astove one day early as the forecast was calling for strong winds and seas which would have made the water transfer impossibly dangerous on the final day. Thankfully, the head guide Brad Simpson made the right call here and we all had a chance to spend the day fishing on Astove.
Between the group we landed over 100 bonefish inside the lagoon, had several permit shots, and a nice GT was landed. A tip of the hat to the head guide on Astove, Tyler O’Connor, who figured out a way to house all of us and get us on the water for a great time. Astove is truly a gem and if you have been there, you would know what I mean. Its not for the faint of heart as most of the fishing is done on foot, but what it delivers as far as an overall experience with amazing fishing, food, and staff makes it worth the trip.
THE LODGING
Alphonse – I had an opportunity to stay in the newly remodeled one-bedroom villas and needless to say, wow. These very private accommodations provide the ultimate in comfort and relaxation with plenty of room to spread out, go for a swim in your own private pool, or enjoy your nice cup of coffee in the morning in the air conditioning while you look out over the flats of Alphonse. The lodge experience has everything to do with the staff as they are truly what makes the magic happen.
No stone goes unturned with them wanting to make sure you have a perfect experience, even for me who used to work amongst many of them and felt like I was just another one of the crew. The mornings are meet with a happy staff ready to make up eggs to order, bringing out the fresh juices and fruits that were harvested from the island, and willing to make you whatever kind of coffee or tea you would like. The evenings are filled with bill ringing ceremonies where everyone celebrates the catches of the day, which is then followed by a dinner that will leave you impressed. I know that this sounds like I am fluffing it up, but you have to see it to believe it.
Cosmoledo – Cosmoledo is a one-of-a-kind lodge in that on paper is sounds a bit basic with its canvas wall tent dining and lounge area, and shipping containers repurposed for accommodations. Upon arrival from Astove via the boat transfer, you are met on the beach by the entire crew from the kitchen staff to the mechanics and you can tell that they can’t wait for you to enjoy that they are so proud of. Once you have made your way through the lineup, you head up the tented area where fresh juice is provided to you and a discussion is had of what to expect for the week.
You then make your way to your accommodations which are a series of 8 different shipping containers that they have remodeled into a very comfortable, air-conditioned room with all the amenities you could hope for. The mornings are met with strong cups of coffee and great buffet style breakfast items. Dinners on Cosmoledo are amazing as the chef is constantly providing over the top selections to choose from. Overall, it’s a great environment and you feel very well looked after for being on the edge of the world.
THE GEAR
Below are the key pieces of gear that made my trip a success on the water:
KEY TAKEAWAYS
- Communicate with the lodge staff and guide team so that you know what to expect and so they do as well.
- Keep your chin up – Even if the weather outlook isn’t great, stay positive and the Indian Ocean will provide you with a good time.
- Buy nice or buy twice – invest into high quality gear for these trips, you are going a long way, and you might as well put your best foot forward.
- Expect there to be delays – you are going a long way with many different legs to your trip, plan some extra time between these legs to provide a delay buffer.
- As always, catch everything that swims. While you might have a particular species in mind, never once was it not fun to catch another species while you are looking for it.
