Written by Joe Bibbo, a Yellow Dog client
When Argentina or Chile comes to mind, it’s usually about Patagonia and its abundance of beautiful places to target trout. Not this time.
Some tunnel for it, others pan for it in rivers, creeks and streams, a few look for it at the end of rainbows & then there are individuals like myself that attempt to find it with a stick and a fly. To be obsessed with the passion of pursuit while traveling afar to observe an opulent flash & feel that combative strike while attempting to bring “Gold” to hand.
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El Dorado is the legendary lost city of gold, which drew the Spanish conquistadors, explorers & gold seekers, to South America, for centuries. Today the gold is real but, elusive drawing fly fisherman from all over the world to dip there flies in unspoiled water while testing their skills & stamina.
My son (Willie) boarded his flight in Portland Oregon almost as the exact same time (three hours difference) that I boarded mine in Charlotte, North Carolina. We were both in route to Buenos Aires, Argentina. My flights went without hitch, and I arrived in Buenos Aires the very next morning. Unfortunately, Willie got waylaid as the result of a large cold front and snowstorm that caused multiple delays. He arrived a day later exhausted but, excited to be at his destination. From there we traveled four hours north crossing the Uruguay River to the Estancia Talar Ranch where we would spend the next week targeting Golden Dorado i.e. “Tiger of The River."
Sometimes things just come together, this was truly one of those occasions. The Rio Mate Lodge itself is currently under renovations so, we stayed @ the family ranch. That is how we ended up at the Estancis Talar Ranch, which dates back to the 1800s. The ranch, like the lodge, is located directly on the bank of the Rio Mate River. Arriving we met our host, Maxie Fox and our fishing guide Kito Raineri. As luck would have it, they were hosting only two fly fisherman at a time when using the ranch. Talking about being spoiled. The accommodations, weather, waters, traditional Uruguay / Argentina food, guide, staff, & yes, the fishing was over the top. We fished rivers, creeks and a local pond (Rio Mate, Rio Uruguay, Palmar Dam, Zban (Stream), Ztas (Stream), Salto Dam (The WALL) & the Rio Mate Super Secret Wolfish Pond). We were able to bring to hand Wolf Fish, Sabalo and our primary target The Golden Dorado.
Fishing method was 97.5 % large and medium size streamer fishing. The other 2.5 consisted of popper fishing. This was truly a streamer junkies paradise using 8, 9 & 10 weight rods. Water haul, back load, tight line cast & placement, water haul, back load, tight line cast & placement, etc. for hours on end. But, when it came together, as it surprisingly did, it was off the chart. The adrenaline made you pound the water for the next take. I’ve been very fortunate chasing & catching a number of fish species over the years however, these Golden Dorado (Salminus brasiliensis) are a freshwater beast. They are an apex predator with unimaginative ferocity, speed, razor sharp teeth that after crushing your streamer, launch itself into the air with acrobatic skills.
Heading up the Rio Mate River, Kito directed the skiff directly into the raging whitewater currents, shouting above the noise for us to get ready to cast our streamers. As we approached the top of the rapids he starts yelling reparto, reparto, cast, cast. As soon as our streamers hit the water all heck broke loose. Looking at Willie I see him strip set his line and he’s into a very nice Dorado. Tight line Willie, keep a tight line, strip, strip, strip! I also have a strong take but, unfortunately I’m at a bad angle and my strip set comes up short & the Dorado is gone. Willie’s fish is now launching itself into the air trying to get into the heavy water and before I can duck his fly line is wrapped around my forehead. Willie is yelling sorry dad, sorry dad. Kito and I are both in stitches & laughing our foolhardy heads off. Meanwhile, Willie has finally got the Dorado partially under control. Kito gets the skiff next to the shoreline & we all jump out and I am able to net this Dorado. High fives by all, pictures taken, and the fish is released back to where it just came from.
Is Dorado fishing a numbers game? Honestly, I don’t know. It is understood that they can be hard to find. But then again, someone forgot to tell them during our recent time on the water.
