I have traveled to Belize once a year for a while now, focusing on Ambergris Caye and Placencia. Like many travelers, I like Belize because it ticks a lot of boxes: fairly easy to reach (especially from the east coast), English-speaking, fantastic guides, delicious local food and an inviting culture, tons of non-angling options, and of course, great fishing. I am always joined by my wife (and occasionally our extended family and children) on these trips as Belize has become her happy place as much as my own.
Having fished the permit flats outside of Placencia/Hopkins for the past few years, it was time to change it up and see some fresh water. The next logical step was to head further south to Punta Gorda. I have been itching to fish with one of the famous Garbutt brothers for years, widely recognized as some of, if not the top, guides in the entire world of permit fishing. It didn't take long to realize the claim was warranted.Â
We made it to Copal Tree Lodge in the afternoon after a private transfer from the small (even for Belize's standards) Punta Gorda airport. Driving through the town you are immediately aware that Punta Gorda is, like much of Central America, an impoverished place. However, its important to recognize the value tourism and fly fishing bring to the community, and how vital those dollars are toward sustaining them day in and day out.Â
The entrance to Copal Tree is marked by sugarcane fields and farmland, all tended by dozens of employees who keep their Copali Rum operation, cacao program, and farm-to-table restaurant ticking. You are soon riding up a steep incline surrounded by dense and mature jungle before arriving at the lodge entrance. We were greeted with drinks and given a brief introduction before settling in.Â
We stayed in a jungle suite and found it to be everything we needed with plenty of room, a huge shower, and a screened in porch. There are a dozen of these suites, as well as some private canopy suites that are higher up and require a tram or stairs to access. These canopy suites have a private pool and bar and offer an amazing view of the jungle, though I think we preferred the jungle suites because it was quick and easy to head up to the main lodge for meals or for a refill at the bar.Â
If you are someone who loves wildlife, this is a special place to stay. One of the first things I noticed was the abundance of the largest grasshopper I've ever seen. They lined the walkway's foliage and are very slow and timid, and showcase beautiful, bright red underwings when making their short, laborious flights. The other feature that quickly became one of our favorite parts of our stay were the hummingbird feeders that are hung around the outdoor dining deck. During mealtimes, hummingbirds zoom about only feet away from your table and happily gorge on the feeders. We frequently saw toucans, as well as the occasional group of howler monkeys feeding in the tall canopy. Some guests noted the howler monkeys woke them up in the night, but we barely heard them!
The next day I was taxied into town to the Garbutts Fishing Lodge who guide for Copal Tree's guests as well as their own. I was met by Oliver Garbutt and we quickly went over tackle and flies while I rigged up my 9-weight. When Oliver asked to see my flies, I pulled out one of three boxes I had brought and opened it up for him to view my crab patterns. "You didn't bring a fly box, you brought a fly shop," he said.Â
The weather on our first day was... not great. It was early July and a strong start to the rainy season in addition to an early tropical system already making its way into the Caribbean. Annual rainfall in the region is nearly triple that of areas to the north, but keep in mind that rain is the backbone of the beautiful ecosystem surrounding Copal Tree and thousands of acres of protected habitat beyond. Predicting the weather in Belize is often a futile task, but the dry season is typically November - May and generally the busiest time for travel.
We headed forty minutes north into a massive lagoon system that one would traditionally look at and think tarpon and snook. While they can be found, the lagoon is primarily a permit fishery. We passed dozens of the traditional hard-bottomed flats that surround small cayes on our way to the lagoon, but we needed cover from the wind and passing rain. The lagoon in many ways is one of the best "Plan B's" I've ever come across in saltwater fishing for permit throughout the Caribbean, and honestly, was some of the best permit fishing I've ever experienced.
In standard conditions, the lagoon's surface is glassy calm and the name of the game is looking for pushing wakes or the occasional tail. Ninety-eight percent of the time these wakes were permit, though over a few days of fishing we did see a few bonefish cruising the shoreline in the five-to-six pound range, as well as one nice jack. We fished under dreary, cloudy skies and frequent rain for most of the morning, but the conditions did little to hamper Oliver's ability to spot fish.Â
+ Waypoints Podcast: Fly Fishing Belize - Part One
+ Waypoints Podcast: Fly Fishing Belize - Part Two
I was very accustomed to spotting tailers on the flats outside of Placencia, so I had to retrain my eyes to keep up with Oliver. Even in windy conditions when the surface was dappled, he could still detect the slightest bit of nervous water at great distances, and occasionally walked my cast into the fish until I could pick them up. In the afternoon we caught a break from the clouds and had a bit of sunshine open up where we could poll the flats outside of the lagoon. These flats are remarkably beautiful, and it only takes one look at the deep, vibrant blue water surrounding the shallow flats to know this is a paradise for feeding permit who can quickly access and exit the flat with the tides. That first day ended without any eats, but we had dozens of shots -- nothing to shirk at in the world of permit fishing.Â
The next morning was cloudy again, but the lagoon was dead calm and we found a school of fish immediately. I spotted them from at least 400 feet, but Oliver was already poling their way. These were happy fish, slowly cruising before stopping to occasionally tail up. We opted to go small, and I tied on a few feet of twelve pound pink fluorocarbon tippet to my 16# leader and a size 6 tan raghead. Soon we were hooked up and had a permit to hand. It was a small fish, but a "permit is a permit" and offer a high that is tough to beat. We stopped for lunch soon after, which are a real treat compared to some operations I've fished with over the years. The night before your trip, you're given an order sheet with plenty of good options, snacks, sodas, and beers to choose from. The fresh fruit and salsa was great to have when taxying from spot to spot, and a couple ice-cold Belikins are a must for the ride home.Â
My final day of fishing with Oliver promised blue skies, but a squall quickly moved in and we simply had to sit and take it. Such is life in saltwater fishing, and there's no point in getting upset. What you can do is prepare with a good rain jacket and a waterproof bag to protect any vitals such as a camera. However, the rain slacked off and we soon had lights out fishing.Â
I've never had more shots at permit in a single day. Over the course of seven hours, I had roughly 60 shots at schools, pairs, and singles. We cycled through my fly box, changing flies frequently hoping to find the one that would get the job done as fish chased, nosed up, and swerved on my fly over and over. Perhaps it was me, perhaps it was the fly, perhaps it was the leader, perhaps it was the permit gods toying with my emotions and laughing, but we couldn't hook one. I fed one fish, and I blame the lack of a good hook set on a shallow hook gap and long weed guard--but who knows. Oliver said, "You should have had three fish today," and that stung, but the the hard reality of permit fishing is: success is measured in you and your guide finding fish and taking the shot, the rest is just extra. If you aren't comfortable with that, then this probably isn't for you--but if you can stomach that notion, there aren't going to be too many better places to be.Â
The next two days my wife and I spent time together at the lodge, taking tours, kayaking on the river, and heading into Punta Gorda for some authentic, local cuisine. No trip to Belize is complete without a meal of stew chicken, rice and beans, Marie Sharpe's hot sauce, and a side of cole slaw or potato salad. I mentioned my affinity for stew chicken to one of the staff, and the next night it was on the dinner menu. This kind of service and attention to detail was a trademark of our entire experience, with every member of the staff being incredibly friendly and accommodating. I can't speak highly enough about their commitment to an exceptional stay!Â
While I would have liked to fish another day or two, its always important for me to do some non-fishing activities and get a feel for a place. There are tons of excursions available at Copal Tree, and it was nice to learn more about their farm program, the lengths they go to to ensure they raise organic produce and meat, their growing rum operation, their delicious chocolate, and to spend some time talking with their staff. Additionally, the food and beverage program is great, and if you are someone who enjoys cocktails, they make some killer drinks utilizing ingredients grown onsite such as herbs, vanilla, chocolate, and of course, Copali rum.Â
After six days of hard fishing, relaxing, and lots of great meals, we boarded our plane and flew back stateside -- though I hope to be back sooner than later. Fishing with Oliver again or his brother Scully rank very high on my list of wants for a future fishing trip!
Important Notes:
- As mentioned, this was the rainy season in the jungle, so the mosquitos were gnarly at times. Pack long pants, breathable long-sleeved shirts, and closed-toe shoes for activities away from the lodge. The lodge does have bug spray, but I would bring your own just in case.Â
- We opted for an a-la-carte package, and this is definitely not the norm. The other guests seemed to have purchased the all-inclusive package, and I think it makes for easier and smoother service. However, if you don't drink or drink very little, a-la-carte is a cheaper option.
- Bring all of your own gear! I forgot a buff one day and Oliver was able to accommodate me, but you will need all of your own flies, terminal tackle, etc. I fished an 8-weight when it was really calm, but stuck with my 9-weight for the bulk of our fishing. While there are tarpon around, they are primarily targeted blind casting with sinking lines or casting to rolling fish in the river. Another guest hooked a big tarpon during our stay in the river, but this style of tarpon fishing isn't what most people are looking for. Overall, I'd say prioritize this destination if you are looking to focus on permit, with some occasional chances at other species in between.Â
