September 2023: Ireland Trip Report

Trip Overview & Lodges Visited

I arrived into Dublin after an overnight flight with service from Atlanta without issue, though direct flights are available daily from a number of other major airports including Boston, JFK, and O’Hare. The Dublin airport is a delight to travel through, as it is easy to navigate and offers a quick and easy customs process. From there, I picked up my rental and began the final leg of a long travel day.

My first impression of Ireland was one of immense calm compared to the hustle of bustle of most any American city. Even on a major motorway, the roads were fairly clear with routine pull-offs and accommodating exits should you need a rest or food. Driving on the left side of the road is not a problem and you adapt to it within a few minutes, though if you are concerned, there are hourly buses departing from the airport and a train station nearby at very affordable rates.

After three and a half hours, I arrived at Ballynahinch Castle in County Galway, one of a number of Great Fishing Houses of Ireland. The entire region is lush with vegetation as ferns, moss, and blossoming flowers have taken up residence in every nook and cranny. The manicured grounds of Ballynahinch are pristine and flourishing, and much of the produce, herbs, and abundant flower bouquets are grown a stone’s throw from the castle’s high-end restaurant. Walking through the gardens is delightful for both anglers and non-angling companions, and the onsite services and comfortable accommodations are truly top-class. Guests can expect the highest quality in both formal evening meals or the on-site pub, its walls adorned by salmon mounts and black-and-white imagery of ghillies from over the past 150 years.

+ Waypoints Podcast: Fly Fishing in Ireland Part 1: Dominic O’Moron of The Great Fishing Houses of Ireland

The fishing at Ballynahinch is primarily for Atantic salmon in the old way of swinging wet-flies and the ghillies have hundreds of combined guide years on the river. With it near the end of the season and an overall low salmon return this year, I opted to target brown and sea trout. As luck would have it, the only other angler that day landed a nice salmon.

Anglers and their guide are assigned beats, and this is their stretch for the day. Along these beats are dozens of casting piers, originally built in the early 20th century by an Indian raj to accommodate his passion for salmon fishing. The beat system manages pressure on the river and ensures anglers have plenty of water to cover without fear of sharing pools.

The unique aspect of the trout fishing at Ballynahinch is that they are rarely targeted given the emphasis on salmon, so the trout water is reliable and productive. In terms of gear, Anglers could realistically arrive with nothing in hand and have access to rods and nets, as well as the wellies used to keep your feet dry. There are both salmon and trout flies available on site, and many of the salmon patterns are steeped in deep tradition with the ghillies eager to chat the nuances of each one.

We said goodbye to the misty heights of Connemara National Park, heading southeast toward Clonmel and the home of Clonanav Fly Fishing. The views along the way are part of the experience, with seemingly infinite rolling emerald pastures aligning the highways. There are a number of easily accessible and affordable historic sites along the way, including John's Castle, Rock of Cashel, and Cahir Castle. As a sidenote, visitors should absolutely set aside some time to visit one or as many of these locations as possible—they are breathtaking in their scope and history, touting a mind-boggling thousand years or more of rich history, stunning architecture, and bewildering stories.

We stayed at Glasha Farmhouse, a reputable Bed and Breakfast only two hundred meters from a very productive stretch of the River Nire. Over the bridge lies a countryside pub first founded in the 1600s, and after all these years, is still alive and well. We enjoyed pints of frothy Guinness each evening with welcoming hosts and some good banter with the locals. The magical views, historic monuments, and pubs were all a joy to experience, but the highlight of the trip took part over three days of fishing with Clonanav Fly Fishing.

Clonanav’s owner Andrew Ryan is a superb caster and angler, growing up fishing the waters surrounding Clonmel before a stint of guiding in Patagonia. He welcomed me to the shop and gave me a run down on the local waters and their respective conditions. A lengthy summer of persistent rain had left the rivers high, but he was confident we could still fish the Nire. Over the course of the first day of fishing, we found great success with streamers, netting eight solid fish, while waiting for the water levels to drop—and when they did, the fishing got even better.

+ Waypoints Podcast: Fly Fishing in Ireland Part 2: Andrew Ryan of Clonanav Fly Fishing

While I was aware that the fishing opportunities were good, I had no idea how good until I experienced it. Over three days of fishing, we landed roughly three dozen brown trout 14+ inches and lost quite a few more—some of which were massive (and wise) trout. We routinely caught smaller fish on both nymphs and dries, a symbol of the health of the fishery in both the short and long term. However, most trout were 16-17 inches, and roughly 1 of every five was 18 inches or greater—an astonishing ratio.

A dry-dropper setup was the preferred method over the next two days, and the guides and Andrew are absolutely dialed on the best flies to use depending on conditions, hatches, and angling ability. Most fish were caught on nymphs beneath a large dry fly, but sunshine brought abundant dark olives and caddis to life and rising trout soon followed. With a quick change of the setup, we were targeting massive, actively feeding brown trout on single dries with great success. For anglers who really love sight fishing to risers with a single dry, this is a fantastic fishery that could be compared to the dry fly fishing found throughout the U.S. Rockies. Though the dry fly was utilized as an indicator most of the time, quite a few fish hammered the specialized klinkhammer Clonanav generally uses in the dry-dropper setup.


In the final hour of the last day, Andrew and I fished one last stretch, bringing to hand some stellar fish caught on their favorite dry--the klinkhammer. Soon, we had landed the biggest fish fish of the trip, though I had lain eyes on multiple fish pushing two feet or greater. With one final cast, a big brown exploded on the dry fly, and while fighting, I comically stumbled over a large boulder, diving face first into the River Nire and flooded my waders. We somehow landed the fish despite the guffaw, and sopping wet, we decided it was time to head for the pub.

Favorite Parts of the Trip

The fishing at Clonanav has to take center stage. The runs are beautiful, the bugs are abundant, and the fish are strong and large. Andrew and his team of guides know the river intimately, and my guide Tommy (a competitive angler in Ireland) was always on top of where and how to target the fish. Additionally, the Nire and Suir are downright beautiful pieces of water, with quiet farmland and unblemished countryside comprising the river banks. 

I also immensely enjoyed the views and people of Ireland, from the rocky mountainscapes of the western coast to the emerald pastures of the southeast. Each little town we drove through had a charming personality with the relics of Ireland's past dotting the roadsides. Its simply a beautiful place to take in. 

Why Should You Go?

There is something here for everyone--whether you are a committed angler or have never held a fly rod in your life. The combination of cultural and historic sites, idyllic countryside, and excellent fishing mean you can blend the experiences to create a truly memorable trip. Although I could have easily fished every day, I found myself wishing I could spend a few more days visiting the coast or touring the abundant castles nearby. 

Key Pieces of Gear/Flies

All of the Great Houses can supply you with the gear and flies you need to swing for Atlantic salmon, though you can opt to bring your own 7 or 8-weight. Depending on the location, a two-handed rod is going to be needed, though some locations favor a single-handed rod. 

At Clonanav, everything you could need is at the shop, and anglers can utilize their onsite wading gear, rod setups, nets, and there is a fully outfitted fly shop on site for flies, terminal tackle, and more. You are welcome to bring your own wading gear to ensure you have the system and fit you prefer, which I did for three days of fishing. A 9' 4-weight is going to be your bread and butter, though we used a 5-weight when fishing streamers (this was only due to high water). A floating line with a smooth taper is going to be ideal, as it is common to make long, delicate casts.

If you are going to bring some flies of your own, we have a selection of recommendations on the Ireland Equipment List.

A couple items you should absolutely bring: 

• A good rain jacket--this is non-negotiable. The weather changes on a dime in Ireland, and you can have a beautiful, blue-bird day change to wind and rain and back to blue skies in a thirty minute window. 
  
  
• Insulated layers are crucial for keeping warm if temperatures are cool, though Ireland does have some warm spells. Have a few options for layering so you can remove throughout the day. I routinely took off my shell jacket and would need it again an hour later.
  
  
• You absolutely need polarized lenses, and I would specifically recommend two pair. I utilized a copper lens the majority of the time, but also had on a pair of Costa Sunrise Silver lenses for a low light option. This was crucial when cloud cover became thick or a hard glare developed on the water and I needed to keep a dry fly in sight.

Key Takeaways

• Ireland is a seriously good option for bringing a non-angling companion. If they want to give fishing a try, the guides and on-site gear make it an easy option. However, my wife took each day to explore somewhere, ranging from taking walks in the Irish countryside to cruising the scenic coast or taking a tour of a local castle built in a previous millennia. 
  
  
• PRACTICE YOUR CAST. Cannot emphasize this enough. If you are swinging for salmon, you need to be able to cover water and distance is going to be key at times. More importantly, it is very common to need to make 30+ foot casts at Clonanav to ensure you are not spooking fish. During portions of the year, these fish are in shallow, clear water, and making an accurate cast with a long leader is a must. Often, anglers show up unable to cast more than a few feet, making for a challenging day of fishing. At times, this can be a technical fishery, and anglers who can make accurate, delicate presentations, mend as needed, and know how to play fish will excel. 
  
  
• For lodging, you can really tailor it to your wants and budget. The Great Houses have everything from 5-star castles to more intimate lodging. Additionally, Clonanav packages can be paired with Glasha Bed and Breakfast or Hotel Minella in Clonmel. Both are great, but vastly different. Glasha is a bed and breakfast in the quiet countryside while Hotel Minella is a full-service hotel with a vast array of great amenities; the great thing about this trip is your ability to customize your fishing vacation and accommodations to suit your liking. 

If you are interested in planning your next fishing trip to Ireland, Contact Yellow Dog to discuss the wealth of available options.