Patagonia has been on my bucket list for years, but I’ve always struggled to peel myself away from saltwater pursuits. When the opportunity came to travel to Argentina and visit our friends at Las Pampas Lodge, though, enough was enough—it was time to make it happen.
I had heard incredible things about Las Pampas from several members of our team, as well as guides and anglers who had experienced it firsthand. It was described as a wading angler’s paradise, paired with exceptional stillwater fishing for true trophy trout. As someone who would take one good sight-cast to a single fish on a dry over a dozen on nymphs any day, I was assured this was the place to be. Not because nymphs don’t work—they absolutely do—but because the team at LPL shares that same mindset. They understand there’s something special about finding a fish, watching it carefully, picking your moment, and feeding it a fly on top. That experience is gold—and Las Pampas has a vault full of it.
As first-time visitors to Argentina, my friend and I decided to spend a couple of days in Buenos Aires. It was the right call. We were able to take a city tour after clearing customs and get a good night’s rest before continuing on. You can make the trip straight through, but you’ll arrive at the lodge exhausted before the fishing even begins.
I consider myself fairly well-traveled and capable of figuring things out in Spanish-speaking countries. Still, after speaking with our South America Program Director, Jack Porter, I was convinced to arrange transfers. He was absolutely right. Having someone meet us at the airport and handle logistics made a huge difference—especially navigating the domestic airport en route to Esquel. It’s packed, confusing, and not particularly intuitive. The same team helped coordinate our transfers at the end of the trip, ensuring I made my redeye home without a hitch. Money well spent.
From Esquel, it’s about a two-hour drive south to Las Pampas Lodge, at the end of a long, winding dirt road near the small gaucho town of Las Pampas. We were greeted with hugs, warm welcomes, cold drinks, and appetizers. Arriving late in the afternoon, we sat down for dinner, met the other guests, and called it an early night—ready to be dialed for day one.
Each fishing day is planned shortly before breakfast, with anglers rotating guides and locations. Despite colder, wetter-than-usual late-summer weather and higher water, the guides made thoughtful, real-time decisions based on conditions and angler preferences.
Rather than a full play-by-play, here are the highlights:
Day 1 - Rio Pico
We started on a section of the Río Pico. The morning was slow, but around 10 a.m., a solid mayfly hatch kicked off. For the next hour, I picked out individual fish, targeting larger trout across the river that required tricky presentations. That challenge—solving the puzzle—is far more rewarding to me than blind nymphing. We landed a couple fish before breaking for lunch.
In the afternoon, we floated a deeper stretch of the Pico, fishing terrestrials, dries, and streamers. With higher, slightly off-color water, the streamer bite was most productive—until I tied on a Morrish hopper my son and I had tied together before the trip. In one of the last holes of the day, I landed a great brown on it. I tucked the fly away immediately—one of those small, meaningful moments I’ll hold onto.
Day 2 - Lago Engaño
Cold and rainy, but absolutely worth it. We headed to Lago Engaño, about an hour and a half away. The lake holds only brook trout—and they’re big, aggressive, and beautifully colored. While the guides rigged rafts, I fished from shore and landed two massive brookies right away. The male’s colors were incredible; the female was built like a linebacker.
We spent most of the day fishing sink tips and streamers, with some shots at risers on dries. Our boat landed around 15 fish, while another group hit closer to 30. We headed back soaked, tired, and completely satisfied.
Day 3 – Africa
One of the most unique places I’ve ever fished. Known simply as “Africa” because it resembles the Serengeti, the landscape is wide, open, and encircled by towering Andean peaks. I jokingly asked if anyone ever requests to fish it every day—but I meant it.
We started in “the channels,” fishing hoppers, beetles, and small caddis in narrow, winding creeks. Despite their size, these waters hold serious fish—I watched a 24-inch brown bolt for cover after we strayed too close to the edge. We picked off a few before sitting down for lunch in a gaucho barn, then waited to see if the PMDs would show.
They did—in droves. Swallows darted overhead, and soon the river came alive. Thousands of pale morning duns drifted downstream, and trout rose with reckless abandon. It was almost overwhelming. I focused on larger fish, which often required longer, more technical casts. We landed a few and lost several more to heavy vegetation. After an hour of nonstop action, the hatch faded, and we wrapped up in a nearby spring creek.
Day 4 – Lago Dos
The land of giants. It’s a long drive (about two hours), but if you’re after quality, it’s worth every minute. This is the place to be for a real shot at 30" fish. While the guides rigged boats, we fished from shore. Bryan Gregson had told me to tie oversized beetles, so I came prepared. One ridiculous 4-inch Fat Albert—tied on a 2/0 hook—got crushed within minutes by a 22-inch rainbow. Not the easiest thing to cast on a 6-weight, but effective.
Later, I switched to a sink tip while my fishing partner stuck with big terrestrials. He had several rolls on the fly, but persistence with a streamer paid off. When a massive rainbow exploded out of the water. Our guide Pancho exclaimed, “That’s a pig!” as it leapt several feet in the air. Calm and controlled, Pancho rowed over to the shore where I exited and fought the fish on foot. While it could hardly fit, the screams of excitement and joy could have been heard from Chile when it finally hit the net. The fish was 24 inches long, but hadn’t missed a meal since it had a mouth to eat one. We didn't get a weight on it, but seven pounds was a safe guess.
Day 5 - Rio Pico
I was feeling a bit under the weather—likely a mix of fatigue, dehydration, and long days—so I took a slower start. We fished another stretch of the Pico. My partner landed his best brown of the trip on a beetle, while I stuck with streamers.
The morning was slow for me, but I picked up a few solid fish in the afternoon. We also explored small spring creeks tucked into the brush, targeting cruising fish with dries. No eats, but this is my favorite style of fishing—technical, visual, and humbling.
Day 6 - Rio Pampa & Spring Creek
The final day. We started on the Río Pampa—slow fishing, despite perfect weather. That’s fishing. A stalled low-pressure system had affected activity all week. But the afternoon more than made up for it.
We headed to an area called Terramoto—Spanish for “earthquake”—named for its uneven, rolling terrain. Beyond the ridges lies a small spring creek with deeper “ponds” holding cruising fish.
I landed a couple rainbows on a parachute hopper before switching to a caddis and hooking another solid fish around 20 inches. Then it happened—I hooked what would have rivaled for the fish of the trip. Big, deliberate, and exactly what you dream about in a place like this. And then… it bent the hook. That’s fishing.
I regrouped, tied on a new fly, and kept going. The fishing slowed, but every pool held fish. We stalked them carefully—like Seal Team 6 on a scouting mission—trying not to give ourselves away. This is what drew me to Las Pampas in the first place. While the lodge can accommodate all styles, it truly shines for anglers who want to get out, walk, hunt, and fish in an intimate, hands-on way.
I could write another essay on the service and food, but I’ll keep it simple: the team at Las Pampas is exceptional, the food is terrific, and the staff welcome you like their own. Many of the guides have been there for over 15 years, and it shows. Every day felt like more than just fishing—it felt like building relationships. Huge thanks to Oggy, Anca, the guides, and the entire lodge staff for creating such a memorable experience.
Abrazos grande—until next time.
A Couple Takeaways:
- The pre-arranged tour and transfers in Buenos Aires are WORTH IT. It made the process seamless and while you can do it on your own, it will likely come with some trials and tribulations.
- I brought down a 5-weight and 6-weight paired with floating lines, along with a sink tip on an extra spool. The guides had everything one could need, but I enjoyed having my own gear and the 5 and 6 were perfect for this fishery. I also found the Patagonia Forra boots to be perfect for the rugged habitat.
- Book some days on the front or back end of your trip. Explore Buenos Aires, eat your weight in steak, and book a day of golden dorado fishing with Urban Dorado Anglers. It is a lot of travel time to get down there, and easing in and out of the week is a must if you can swing it.
- As always, practice your cast. The wind gusts can be absolutely brutal, and if you aren't accustomed to casting in the wind, you won't have as much success. Secondly, these fish are more likely to eat the fly than trout elsewhere, but the cast still needs to be on point. With that said, the guide team gauge experience and skill level early on and can accommodate any and all skill levels.
