Words by Mexico Program Director Sam Mebane // Images by Bryan Gregson
At the beginning of November, Bryan Gregson and I found ourselves arriving in the Cancun airport once again. We were geared up, and ready for a trip to Mexico’s “Tarpon Coast” along the Northern Yucatan Peninsula. Our main objective was a reconnaissance mission, visiting and familiarizing ourselves with Tarpon Cay Lodge, Isla del Sabalo Lodge, Campeche Tarpon, Tarpon Town, and Fly Fish Tabasco.
+ View the North Yucatan Equipment List
The first stop on our trip was Tarpon Cay Lodge in Rio Lagartos. We were pleasantly welcomed by skull painted faces, decorations, elaborate dresses, and music playing throughout the town as we had arrived during the Day of the Dead celebrations. As if we had known each other for years, Raul and Joey – owners of the Yuum Ha Hotel where you stay with Tarpon Cay – had us join their family’s boat in the towns annual boat parade. It was an unforgettable experience celebrating such a huge day in Mexican culture.
The following day we went back to business, hopping in the boat at 7:00am to explore the fishery and hunt tarpon. The fishery includes a maze of winding mangrove channels. Some channels are as wide as the Missouri river or as skinny as 10-20 feet across--All of which held rolling tarpon. We explored and fished hard for about 4 hours, returning to the Yuum Ha around noon. After a long siesta, we geared up again for the evening session starting around 3:00pm. The split program here is a great way to break up the day, and see the fishery in two different lights. We had really looked forward to the evening session because neither one of us had fished the salt that time of day. It did not disappoint. As the sun set covering the sky with streaks of beautiful pastel colors, we casted to rolling tarpon, finishing off a breathtaking day.
The next day, we were back on the road headed to Campeche. Arriving in Campeche felt like we had been teleported back in time. The city was breathtaking as it has so much well maintained, old colonial architecture. There were rows of ancient cobble stone streets, some closed to driving, with endless bars, restaurants, cafés, galleries, and shops. The town really reminded us of the old parts of Charleston, SC or Savannah, GA. We stayed at Hotel Plaza Campeche which is right in the heart of downtown Campeche. Alejandro and his son Pachin – owners of Campeche Tarpon – greeted us upon arrival. We could tell immediately that they were an unbelievable father-son team that took so much pride in their city and operation.
The next two days we explored and fished the Campeche fishery. The fishing program here starts early. They aim to have you on the boat, running to your spot at 5:00am. Arriving to the first spot of the day, we watched the sunrise over the mangroves as the boat sneaked up on rolling tarpon. Tarpon are extremely active that early in the morning, rolling everywhere outside the mangroves. As the day progressed, they slowly moved their way inside the shelter of the mangroves. After multiple shots along the edges of the mangroves, we moved our way inside the intricate rivers and creeks making short, tight casts to tarpon in the 5-15 lb range. It felt like trout fishing for tarpon.
Our next stop on the tour was Isla del Sabalo Lodge in Isla Arena. After a 2-hour drive from Campeche, we arrived in the small, fishing village of Isla Arena. This town is literally at the end of the road. Seemingly a forgotten town by the rest of Mexico, it was incredibly quiet, relaxing, and the perfect place for a traveling angler looking to get off the grid. We were greeted with open arms by the lodge staff and enjoyed a much-needed sleep to get ready for fishing the next day.
Fishing here was nothing short of incredible. The variety of terrain is really what blew us away. We started the day fishing the turtle grass flats way outside of the mangroves. It seemed as if we were going deep sea fishing running out into the open ocean until we saw the shallow flats. What looked like a desert of open ocean, quickly turned into a boiling flat with tarpon surrounding us. Following the flats, we fished along the mangroves, and then inside the rivers as the tarpon moved into cooler areas. This fishery will always hold a special place in my heart as it was an unforgettable experience.
Our last stop on the tour was Frontera, Mexico – the basecamp for Fly Fish Tabasco. Frontera was a very vibrant town, with some of the most polite and friendly people we’ve ever met traveling. Staying at the Hotel Mar Mor, we were right in the center of the town’s main plaza next to the local basketball court, soccer field, restaurants, shops and bars. It felt like a real immersion into Mexico.
We only had one day fishing in Tabasco, and wish we had more. Fishing here was more unique than anything we had experienced so far. Rather than fishing oceanside, we were in a river the entire time, that also opened up to large lagoons. Coming up to our first fishing spot of the day, we flew past more birds than we had ever seen in our lives. There were millions of birds, all there for a baitfish migration. 
Paco, the owner, operator, and our guide, was whistling the Jurassic Park theme song as we went past. There was no better song to depict the scene. And then… we fished. The numbers of tarpon in Tabasco are astounding. We poled along the bank, casting to more fish than I have ever seen in my life. We were able to literally pick the fish we wanted to catch because they were so abundant: “Oh, that fish looks bigger, I’ll catch that one.” Although the size of these tarpon is smaller, it is the perfect place to catch as many as you would like. There is definitely nice sized tarpon there, but catching them will really test your casting ability.
Overall, the trip was a major success. I cannot stress how underrated, overlooked, and incredible the tarpon coast fishery is. For any angler looking for a lot of action in a true Mexico setting, don’t hesitate to reach out or let your desired dates book up! Feel free to email me anytime: sam@yellowdogflyfishing.com. I look forward to hearing from you!
